hobbit conversion


with the handy help of hobbit blaster master peter mcderfer i converted my PA50I bottom end to a PA50II last night. he’s got a great blog post detailing everything you need to do complete with some pro tips.

there’s a few steps. first up was grinding down the little nubber in the cases that keep you from running PA50II cylinders and kits.

before, ok almost before. i got a little excited and ground some away before taking a picture.
PA50I to II conversion

PA50I to II conversion

next up, to be able to use a PA50II ramp plate you need to grind away a bit of the insides so it’ll slide onto a PA50I crank.

you can see the part that’s catching on the PA50I crank (PA50I cranks have one flat spot, and PA50II’s have two). that little red bit has GOT TO GO.
PA50I to II conversion

easy peasy
PA50I to II conversion

there’s some reedcage and intake bidnass you need to take care of too. that’s all covered in peter’s post.

i also modded my variator to get some xtreme variatin’. by cutting the variator walls you allow the weights to swing out further, giving you higher top speed. here’s the area i marked out to remove.

after you cut that material away you’ll have some rough walls of aluminum. now bust out your high speed aluminum cutting bits and grind everything down to be silky smooth. it’s really important to continue the variator ramps into the wall. you want your weights to have a smooth, uninterrupted rolling surface. precision and patience are you best friends with this. when you get done it should look like this.

i also made some huge progress yesterday on the derbi monster. post to come about that.


One Response to “hobbit conversion”

  1. 1 jeremy.bandit

    clean work, dude. I swear – your case/cylinder/porting work gets better daily.

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