bonerjamz

03May10

well we got rained out this weekend and had to cancel round 1. the next race will be as scheduled on june 12-13. in the unnecessary rush to get my bike finished for the races i finished up a few things. i figured out a seating position and mostly finished making a seat. wadowski had a bare kinetic seat pan laying around that looked promising. i picked up a walmart camping mat for $6 and 3M industrial spray adhesive for $10 and took my first stab at making a seat.

race seat

first layer prepped.
race seat

a bread knife worked real well to shave it into the form i wanted. markryan approves.
race seat

layer two on and shaped.
race seat

it just needs a cover now…which might just end up being spraypaint. we’ll see how motivated and knowledgeable i feel. anyone have re-upholstering tips?

i also got my pilot tires mounted. good news, they fit a maxi swingarm no problem. bad news, they’re the hardest tires i’ve ever tried to put on. i got them close and brought them to nate to finish off. nate allllmost had to use tools (no tools = no popped tubes), but managed to muscle them on. afterwards he said he’d rather put on a hundred gazelles before installing another set of pilots. woof. i was in cinci this weekend for a tbs vacation, so i haven’t ridden them yet, but all signs point to awesome. super low profile.

ultra low profile

with the next race 6 weeks away some focus is shifting back to the derbi monster. i’m going to start building the rear wheel this week and find out if the spokes are the right length. if they are things will hopefully start falling into place. if not, it’s back to the drawing board…again.

Advertisements


13 Responses to “bonerjamz”

  1. Is there anything nate can’t do with his bare hands?

  2. 2 JOEL

    YES! I have upholstery advice! Make a tufted seat.

    Step 1: Wrap your padding in vinyl (or if you are fancy do it in leather) like a present. since you’ve already glued it to the pan just wrap everything and figure out way to secure the vinyl to the bottom of the pan.

    Step 2: Using a really small drill bit put two holes right next to each other in the spots that you want your buttons. If you want it to look all plush and tufted you are going to have to use buttons, get the leather upholstery ones.

    Step 3: Run thick durable thread through those holes and up through the button. Once you have it threaded adequately, pull hard on the thread so it pulls the button down into the cushion and makes your seat look oh so comfy.

    The end result should look like this:

  3. 3 JOEL

    damn. well this is the link I was trying to post:

  4. 4 gabeb

    awesome! thanks a bunch joel. where would you recommend putting the buttons for optimal comfort?

  5. 5 JOEL

    Hmmm… well since it’s pulled into the padding it probably won’t effect the comfort level too much unless the padding is bottoming out. Maybe two buttons the length of the seat in the middle?

    On further research I discovered that upholstery buttons also come pronged like metal brads. That type of button would be way better/easier because then you aren’t dealing with thread, you just drill one hole, poke the prongs through, and bend them over underneath the pan.

    This site has some good photos and advice though I doubt english was the first language of this upholsterer.

    http://www.fabrics.net/projects/tufting.asp

  6. 6 gabeb

    hmmm, the seat foam does basically bottom out in the middle. i thought about adding another layer, but i like it firm for a race seat. i’ll see how the covering goes and then maybe add some tufting. thanks for the info dude!

  7. Tuft the buttons to make a recessed area to cradle your package. Optimal comfort achieved.

  8. 8 JOEL

    Yeah I was going to say something about putting the buttons under your crack and taint but that’s just crass.

    • 9 gabeb

      packing cradling has to be good for dropping at least 2 tenths on my lap time.

  9. 10 Melissa

    Nice freakin’ pipe!

  10. hey there, what kind of wheel/hub setup are you perusing? I’m threading a stock derbi hub to a 17″ aluminum rim, and the spokes are NO WHERE NEAR close, also derbi uses special straght-riveted spokes (no bend at the bottom) so i’m probably going to end up making my own stainless spokes for this wheel.. interested?

    • 12 gabeb

      i’m using a ’71 kawasaki F7 rear hub and a moby rim. i’ve got some spokes from a new motorcycle that looked to be about right at the shop when i mocked it up, but there’s no telling if it’ll work until i try putting it together. if it doesn’t work i’m definitely interested in some custom spokes. work got busy so i won’t have a chance to work on the bike for another week and a half. i’ll let you know how it works out. thanks!

  11. 13 johnnie

    the battlemaxi and i will be there for the june race. commin all the way from jersey


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s


%d bloggers like this: